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Tips & Demos

Watercolor and watermedia
painting tips and demonstrations
by Ellen Fountain, N.W.S.

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Topic: Painting with a Limited Palette of Colors

You've probably noticed when you went shopping for watercolor pigments that there are a LOT of available colors. If you've taken a workshop or a class, you've found that most teachers have their "favorite" palette of colors as well. How do you choose? My advice is to begin with a small number of colors, experiment with those until you are thoroughly familiar with what each pigment can do by itself and in mixtures with the other hues. Then, add a few more colors to your palette, and continue your experiments. Eventually, you'll find a group of colors that will give you the results you want for the type of painting you do.

The little painting below was done entirely with just three pigments: permanent blue, Winsor yellow and alizarin crimson (all by Winsor & Newton).
All three of these pigments are "cool" leaning–that is, the red has a bluish cast rather than a yellowish cast; the yellow, although a clean clear hue, still leans slightly toward green rather than orange; the blue is a violet blue rather than a greenish blue.

UPDATE:
Since I initially did this tip, we've learned a lot about the lightfastness (or not!) of various tube watercolors. See www.handprint.com for LOTS of information about the pigments used in watercolor paints.

Traditional Alizarin Crimson is not lightfast. Today, I would (and you should too) find an Alizarin Crimson substitute that is permanent. Look for a color that contains Pigment Red 122 (PR122) or a combination of PR N/A+PR206, or even PV15 or PV19. Some possible choices are:
Winsor & Newton permanent alizarin crimson #466,
Rembrandt permanent madder lake #336 or
Schmincke madder red dark #354 or
Daniel Smith Quinacridone Red.

Also, permanent blue is no longer made by Winsor & Newton. Use Graumbacher Finest ultramarine blue (permanent blue) #219 instead, or Daniel Smith ultramarine or french ultramarine blue. Finally, you could substitute Daniel Smith Hansa Yellow Light, or Winsor & Newton transparent yellow #653 or Winsor lemon #772 for the Winsor yellow or permanent yellow lemon.



The three pigments are also very intense–that is, highly saturated so that it takes very little actual pigment to affect another color when mixed together. They are also all staining pigments, which means they cannot be re-wetted and easily lifted off the paper once they are dry. Because of this, you have to plan ahead for the pure white areas and remember to paint around them or protect them with liquid masking fluid as you work. Finally, in terms of pigment characteristics, this palette of colors as a whole is semi-transparent, with alizarin crimson being the most transparent, and the permanent yellow lemon being the least transparent.When you look at the color wheel I painted using these three pigments, you can see that mixtures of the yellow and blue result in fairly clear greens, but that they are somewhat opaque (because of the yellow). Likewise the mixtures of alizarin and yellow give clean oranges, that become more slightly more opaque as they move toward the yellow. The mixtures of the alizarin and the permanent blue result in clear, transparent violets. When it comes to neutrals, this palette is capable of mixing a wide range of them, from saturated darks (using all three pigments), to warm or cool grays (using different proportions of the three hues in a less saturated mix). Give this set of colors a workout with your own ideas for paintings. I think you'll discover that it can handle a wide range of subjects very well!

Want more help with this topic? Volumes 3 and 4 from my five-volume WATERCOLOR Instructional VIDEOS covers color mixing and paint properties in depth.
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